The Case for
the Valley
The case for shooting from the valley goes like this:
It is crucial to release each arrow from a consistent
draw weight. Obviously, you
don’t want to release it before the valley because a) you would be
wasting the bow’s potential power, b) your holding weight would be
higher than it need be and c) the draw weight is changing so quickly
that even a tiny variation of draw length would have a huge effect.
Similarly, if you draw back past the valley, the draw weight
starts to climb very rapidly indeed (the line on the graph becomes
vertical almost immediately), so the argument about tiny variations
of draw resulting in large variations of weight applies even more
when shooting from the wall. In
addition, when shooting from the wall the arrow experiences uneven
acceleration – high, low, high – as it moves into the valley and
out the other side. This tends to give inconsistent arrow flight.
The practical demonstration of this is that the arrow will go
high if shot from in front or behind the valley – because of the higher
draw weight – and it will be difficult to achieve consistency in
either case.
So, its advocates argue, the only sensible place to shoot from is
the valley, where small inconsistencies of draw length don’t
matter as it all has more or less the same draw weight, so the arrow
is always given the same, smooth acceleration.
The Case for
the Wall
The case for the wall is based on the argument that it is easier
to achieve consistency of draw from the very positive wall, than
from the rather nebulous valley, and that, in practice, this added
degree of consistency more than makes up for any theoretical
disadvantages. But
what are the disadvantages really? It is the total
amount energy stored in the bent limbs that determines arrow speed,
not the draw weight at that particular point, and stored energy is always
higher the further the bow is drawn, so one 'valley' argument falls.
What is more, stored energy is only increasing while the
limbs are bending – the bending is precisely what stores it.
That means that, beyond the wall, there is no storage however much
energy you put into drawing the bow. The wall marks the point where
the wheels or cams no longer have any effect, and the limbs stop
bending: it would take a pull of 400 to 500 lb to bend the limbs of
a typical 50-60 lb peak weight compound any further.
You can, of course, make the scales say anything you like,
just by pulling harder: as Ben Jones of Merlin Bows (http://www.merlin-bows.co.uk)
points out, a coat hanger will register just about any peak weight
you want on the scales, if you pull it hard enough, but you might be
a bit disappointed at the arrow speed! There goes another
'valley' argument.
About all we are left with is the changing acceleration as the arrow
passes through the valley and out the other side. This is
real, but on a modern compound with well designed wheels or cams its
practical effect is negligible, or so proponents of the wall maintain.
Provided draw length is truly consistent there should be no
difference in grouping from the wall, the valley, or anywhere else.
If there is, then the first thing to check is your cam
timing. If this is not
spot-on, you will be severely punished for even the smallest
variation of draw length.
The
Verdict
One thing is clear – it is possible to shoot top scores off the
wall and out of the valley.
Larry Wise and Frank Pearson illustrate this point perfectly,
the one being a dedicated valley shooter (or at least he was, and
shot extremely good scores at the time), the other drawing hard
against the wall. The
key, as both schools of thought would agree, is achieving the same
arrow speed shot after shot, through the whole of a long, hard
day’s shooting. So, which is likely to be the more consistent method?
The answer, I believe, depends mainly on the design of the bow.
If your bow has round, or nearly round wheels and a 50%
let-off it is likely to have a long, easily found valley and a very
spongy wall. At the
other end of the scale, if you have an hard cam and an 85% let-off,
the chances are that that you have no valley to speak of, but your
wall is like hitting a … well, a wall!
The same applies to any bow having draw stops ('wallbangers') built
in to the cams. In the first case you would be well advised to shoot from the
valley, and in the others, you have little option but to shoot from
the wall.
Wheel/cam adjustability is another factor to consider.
If your bow has fixed length steel cables, and no other means
of adjustment, then cam timing is apt to be a bit hit-or-miss,
unless it has been set up specifically for you, taking into account
your personal nocking height, tiller, release and hand position –
all of which can affect timing significantly.
In this case, the weight of evidence suggests that you might
get better groups shooting from the valley.
On the other hand, with modern fibre cables (Fastflight, BCY
450+ etc), where precise adjustment of cam timing is easy, the wall
is again likely to be the better option.
So, if you have a more modern bow, with a 65%+ let-off, fibre
cables and wheels/cams specifically designed to stop dead at the end
of their effective draw you will probably get the best results
shooting from the wall. Lower let-offs, steel cables and round, unstopped wheels all
suggest the valley as your best bet.
But remember that both techniques can work equally
effectively, so don’t feel you must use one or the other – if in
doubt, try both and let your scores decide.
A
Footnote – Underdrawn Arrows
Why do slightly under-drawn arrows go high when shot from a
compound? There is no doubt that they do, but equally, there is no
doubt that it is stored energy, not draw weight as such that
determines arrow speed. An
underdrawn arrow is always slower than a correctly drawn one and a
speed meter will soon confirm the point.
I have seen explanations in terms of cam timing (I can’t
remember where), but I was not convinced, and also in terms of the
nocking height, but that becomes effectively higher the shorter the
draw, which would tend to send the arrow low, not high.
Personally, I suspect that the answer has something to do
with changing pressure on the bow hand, but I’m not at all sure.
Any solutions?
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